Monday, December 31, 2012

Solar Panel Installation

This post is a long time coming. I should have written about this subject over a year ago. Well, better late than never, I suppose.

For the first few months after moving in toward the beginning of May of 2011, we were running off of a battery bank charged every other day by a generator. It worked, but gas sure was expensive. I reckon our gasoline bill just for electricity ran about $150-$200 per month. I ordered and received two 230W solar panels shortly after arriving here, but due to time constraints, it took a while to get them hooked up.

There are not many cleared spots on our property. The area around the house is relatively clear, but there are tall cedar and fir trees very near the house casting shadows on some part of the cleared area at various times throughout the day. The other cleared area is the septic field, but that area is about 250 feet from the house, and running DC wiring that long for a mere 460 (peak rated) watts of power presents a few challenges. Direct current tends to lose voltage over long wiring runs. That can be mitigated somewhat by using larger wiring, but large wiring for that distance gets expensive, almost more than the solar modules in this small setup.

Since we didn't plan to live in our off-grid cabin through the winter just yet (although those plans changed later), I opted for a temporary setup close to the house, and we would just put up with the occasional shadows in the summer time. To keep costs down, I built a simple deck to which rails that support solar modules can be attached. The rails allow the modules to be set at different tilt angles throughout the year as the elevation of the sun changes. With a little help I hand-dug an approximately 18-inch deep trench from the house to the platform about 80 feet away. 2AWG wire was laid from the house to the platform inside schedule 40 non-metallic conduit layed in the trench. A combiner box attached to the platform connects the solar module wiring to the underground wiring through circuit breakers and a lightning arrestor. At the other end, inside the house, the underground wiring attaches to a Morningstar 60 amp MPPT charge controller. This charge controller is overkill for now since we only generate less than 9 amps at about 60 volts, but when we get more modules later, we won't have to upgrade the charge controller. I got this charge controller because it was reasonably priced, could convert high-voltage DC coming from the solar module strings to the 12-volt system already installed in the house as well as 24-volt or 48-volt systems which we might use in the future, and it has an ethernet interface for monitoring over the Internet. Since we planned to be away during the winter, I liked the idea of being able to keep an eye on the battery bank and energy production.

Now that we do live here during the winter, we realize that we are going to have to clear some trees to get some sun with the low sun angle in the wintertime. Also, the panels need to be raised at least six feet off the ground so I don't have to clear away the snow that slides down them all the time.

So how well does this system work, and how much did it cost?
May through August, when the sun is not blocked by trees, it works great. The only time we run the generator is to pump water out of the well into our holding tank and to equalize batteries (a subject for another day), or run a blender or vacuum cleaner, which adds up to may an average of 30 minutes per week. Outside of those months, solar electricity production drops significantly and we run the generator about 2 hours a day to keep the batteries, which are not in good shape, topped off. We run any heavy loads during the second half of the charge cycle so as not to overburden our 3KW generator.
During the winter, the solar panels produce nicely if the snow is kept
clear and the sun actually reaches them. More often than not, though,
it's cloudy in the winter.
Between the charge controller, combiner box, and solar panels, I spent about $1500. The solar panels cost a reasonable $2.25 per watt at the time (retail) though they can be bought for half that or less just one year later. I look forward to expanding the solar array as soon as I can create a permanent place to put them. Wiring and conduit cost about $300 more, plus maybe almost $100 more for blocks, pressure treated lumber, screws, etc. You're probably thinking $2000 is a lot less money than you've read about others spending on a solar setup. Remember, I did not have to purchase batteries or inverter since those were already here when we moved in and those are significant cost items. We do need to replace the batteries soon, though, and we'd like to replace the modified wave inverter with a pure sine wave inverter which will let us run our vacuum cleaner and Vitamix blender without firing up the generator. (Some motors and dimmer switches have problems with modified sine wave inverters.) If I would have knowm how much gas we would have saved those first few months I would have increased the priority for this project.

Tuesday, August 14, 2012

Garden Update for August 2012

Our garden this year is four times as big as it was last year.  I'm actually impressed at the results considering very little has been done in the way of preparation and ammending. The three new beds this year have received no treatment other than tilling (by hand), the addition of some bagged compost (to loosen up the clay), and very little organic fertilizer.

Last year I planted only four foods: tomatoes, cabbage, kale, and one pepper plant. This year, I skipped the pepper and added some others to see how well they will grow here. I chose mostly heirloom organic seeds that can be planted "as soon as the soil can be worked." Our last frost can be as late as mid June around here, and many plants don't mature before the first frost in September. I chose seeds with the shortest "days to maturity" label that I could find, hoping that these varieties taste good, too. We haven't harvested much yet, but should be pretty soon, so taste commentaries will come later.

So what did I plant this year?
  • Three varieties of tomatoes, two heirloom and one hybrid that I bought as relatively large plants at a local nursery.
  • Kale
  • Cabbage
  • Swiss Chard
  • Walla Walla Sweet Onions (hybrid bulbs)
  • Beets
  • Carrotts
  • Two varieties of potatoes (this is Idaho, after all)
  • Watermelon
  • Sunflowers

Unless otherwise noted, I planted from seed. The potatoes and watermelon and sunflowers went in extremely late (late July) while most of everything else was planted in Late April and early May.

Two varieties of potatoes with one water melon
plant at the bottom left of the picture.

Three varieties of tomatoes surrounded by
two varieties of sunflowers.




















Walla walla sweet onions, beets and carrots.
We have a lot of rabbits, so this bed is fully
enlosed--top and bottom.
Chard (mostly eaten by the deer), cabbage and
kale, one of our favorite greens.

After last year's experience, I knew that a fence was mandatory if we wanted to eat our food and not feed the deer. Nonetheless, the deer got to the chard before I could get the fence up, so we won't have much chard to eat this year. The location of the garden is still tentative, and even if it is to become permanent, I would want to clear some small trees and expand it, so wanted to spend as little as possible on the fence while keeping it effective. I found some cedar poles that a previous owner had cut and left lying behind the barn that were about 12 feet long (maybe longer). I figured that should be high enough to keep the deer out. I opted for six-foot welded wire fencing mainly because it was cheapest and could be most easily moved. The cedar posts wrapped were put at the corners and 8-foot T-posts were used where needed along the edges. It's not a very sturdy fence, but it seems to be doing the job with the deer as they seem to be avoiding it. I doubt it would stand up against a moose, though, and I saw one just yesterday, but it got scared and ran off when it heard us watching it.


Our temporary garden fence. The final fence will probably be chicken wire on the bottom to keep out small animals topped by electrified wire to keep out the big ones. Welded wire fencing doesn't work so well on such hilly terrain. The orange tape
is to help the deer see that there is a new obstacle in their way.

There are also some wild raspberries and plenty of thimbleberries growing on our property. I'm told thimbleberries are best eaten as jam, and I'll say I'm not very fond of them fresh off the plant. My daughter seems to like them though. When I take her picking with me, they all go straight to her mouth and none make it back home in my bucket. I estimate I've been able to pick about a cup of raspberries over the last few days, and they taste much better this year than they did last year when i sampled some. Yeay!

Our blueberry bushes are growing nicely. I plucked the flowers off the bushes this year to encourage them to fill out. I did save just a few flowers, though, and one berry has made it to maturity without falling off early. We split it three ways, and it was delicious! I'm really looking forward to next year, when we should at least get a handful or two of blueberries.

Monday, April 16, 2012

Garden Update for April 2012

Spring has finally sprung in Northern Idaho. While downtown has been clear of snow for a few weeks now, the snow in our neck of the woods has just recently begun to melt. It took temperatures in the 50s and 60s recently to get it going. And go it did. The quick snow melt almost washed away our driveway and the road. A few days of digging ditches in the mud and flowing water saved both.

The growing season is short here--our last frost is usually in early June. And summer nights are pretty cool. It may be in the 80s during the day, but nights can still be in the 40s. Many plants don't like this large temperature swing, so you have to take measures to keep them growing.

Last year, we had problems with deer eating our food. So this year I plan to put in a seven foot fence. I'm hoping it will also deter the moose, but as big as they are, it would take a pretty strong fence to keep them back if they really want something.

I plan on planting some root vegetables this year, including carrots and beets. We have plenty of rabbits around here, so I wanted to make sure they didn't eat my carrots. While attending some meetings organized by our local gardener's association, I learned that a lot of people have problems with gophers and such, too. The solution, I'm told, is to create a fully enclosed garden, including the bottom.

So my first project this season was to build a permanent garden bed that will prevent any digging or burrowing animal from getting in. Aside from the wire fencing, all materials were scrap that was lying around waiting to be used. The wood frame was made using the crating for the roof installed last year and left over from the solar panel installation. To "seal" the bed, the fencing is stapled to the wood along seams, and the bottom is stitched shut with wire used to hold the fencing in a roll. The finished size is ten feet by four feet.

The enclosed bed before it is filled with dirt.
From the ground to the top is about two feet.


This bed is about two feet deep. The location is slightly inclined so I leveled the bed by leaving more exposed above ground at the bottom of the hill from where these pictures were taken. I basically just dug until I hit the orange clay and then dug a little more, moving some dirt from the top of the hill to the bottom so that the bed would have roughly the same usable depth all the way across. We'll have to wait and see how well this actually holds up.

The finished bed backfilled with dirt. The sides will probably have to
be reinforced before it is filled to the top.
I'll try and get some organic compost this week to mix in with our soil. The soil around here has quite a bit of clay, although being in the forest there is a bit of organic matter on top. This particular spot is disturbed soil and the hill was probably created when the area for the house was cleared. I'll probably make two more beds in this hill, but probably not fully enclosed like this one. This box will be solely for plants needing protection from diggers.

Hopefully by next week we can start planting.

Tuesday, March 13, 2012

Faster Internet - Is It Possible?

When we came back from our Christmas 2011 vacation, I discovered that Verizon's 4G LTE service had come to town. In town, I measured the connection speeds at 20Mbps down and 7Mbps up. That was really good news! The real question, though, was whether or not I could receive a 4G signal at the house. When I got home, I checked several locations around the house and was unable to receive a signal anywhere. It turns out, if I wait long enough, I can get a 4G connection at our bedroom window.  It was weak and would disconnect and reconnect all the time, but it was there. On a warm (above freezing) day, I stuck the modem outside the window and noticed a tripling of connection speeds. This got me thinking.

How could I bring this stronger outside signal indoors to my router? My 3G cellular repeater works great, but doesn't repeat 4G signals which are on a different frequency. A quick search of the web told me there weren't any 4G repeaters on the market--yet. What about an external antenna? At first, I didn't see any external antenna ports, but upon further inspection, I saw that they were covered with little black stickers. So I ordered a full-band outdoor antenna that works with Verizon's 4G frequencies along with some cabling and an antenna adapter for my modem.

For the last week or so, I've been trying to get this to work. If I put the outdoor antenna in the same spot outside the window where my modem worked, the modem will not connect. Strangely, the RSSI (received signal strength indicator) indicates a slightly stronger signal, but just will not connect. When the snow finally stopped falling and it was safe to go out on the roof, I tried raising the antenna about six feet above the roof. I was able to get a good RSSI along with a decent download speed, but a down right horrible upload speed of about 20Kbps. That's slower than a dial-up connection on the uplink and not suitable for the work I do. I moved the antenna to several locations around the house, and no matter what I did, I could not get a suitable upload speed.

I called the 3G Store, the vendor from whom I purchased the antenna kit, and we talked through everything I tried and they confirmed, I tried everything possible.  They suggested I try pinching the connector on the antenna adapter to create a more solid connection between the antenna and the modem. Back outside I went, trying all my tests again. At best, performance with the outdoor antenna was about equal to using the modem without an external antenna while it was placed inside the house in our upstairs bedroom window.

Based on all this experimenting, I suspect that while the antenna helps me receive a stronger signal, it doesn't help and in fact may hinder my transmit ability. Wilson electronics does make a direct connect 4G signal amplifier. I'm considering trying it, as if it can increase my uplink speed, I will get a significant performance increase. For me, this means two people in the house can each use the Internet without interfering with the other's work.

So until I consult with the 3G Store again and decide whether or not the amplifier will help me, I'm going to try leaving my modem in the upstairs bedroom window and seeing how it works out for me. Just for comparison's sake, here are some Internet speed test results from speedtest.net showing my 4G connection speeds (when it is actually working).

4G speed test results from indoor window location.

Monday, February 27, 2012

Winter Chores

Throughout the summer, I thought that winters here would require less work since there is so much less daylight and we'd be stuck inside. Well it turns out there is still quite a bit to do even if it is dark outside.

Whenever it snows more than a couple inches, which is more often than I expected, I have to run the snow blower down the driveway and to all the locations I walk regularly--the generator shed, the solar panels, the wood pile, etc. I have the routine down to under an hour if it isn't a blizzard, but when we get a foot of snow all at once it can take twice as long or more, depending on how wet the snow is. I always try to clear as much snow as possible before it rains, because the watered down snow will inevitably freeze in fairly short order making walking up and down our driveway quite treacherous and delaying the day that we can actually drive up it. Since I work during the day, and because the snow blower has a light on it, I usually end up doing this chore at night if it's a work day.

Maintaining clear walkways makes daily chores much easier, especially
when the snow gets deep like it is now. These solar panels were installed
with summer use only in mind. They will probably get raised or even
moved to a less shaded (in winter) location this summer.

I chop wood about every other day. I do it manually, because I didn't want to spend money on a wood splitter this year after all the money we've spent on home improvements, and because I really wanted to make sure I can split wood without power tools if I have to. I've discovered that it only takes a few minutes a day to split wood once you get the hang of it. I spend 15 to 30 minutes to produce about a two day's supply of firewood. Our wood pile contains mostly pine, fir, larch, and birch. The birch is the hardest to split, but even birch rarely takes more than a few good whacks before it splits. I've actually come to enjoy the chore of splitting wood!

I use a six pound maul with a fiberglass handle. A friend back east who has chopped more wood than I had at the beginning of the year told me what to get. He told me an eight pound maul can be more than light skinny guys like us can comfortably control. I'd have to say I agree with him. The six pounder that I have feels like a good match for me.  After the incident last November, I try to split the wood so that logs are no longer than six inches wide. To ease stress on my back, I use a large diameter short log to lift the piece I'm splitting about a foot off of the ground. Next year, I might try putting this setup inside a tire, so that when the log splits, the parts don't fall into the snow. If that turns out to not be very safe, I'll abandon the idea. Feel free to comment on this idea or if you have a better idea for solving this problem.

And of course, there is the never-ending chore of feeding the wood stove. It's necessary to stay warm, and we've gotten used to it. But there are times when we are just so involved with what we are doing that neither of us wants to. We do it anyway because we have to. Such is life.

The one winter chore I really don't enjoy is changing the oil in the generator. The old generator just wasn't designed for maintenance. The Honda generator looks much easier and cleaner, so maybe I can finish changing the oil before my fingers freeze. Time will tell, I guess.

Generator Troubles

When we came back home after being away for about a month for the Christmas and New Year holidays, our generator was giving us troubles. It refused to start. Eventually, the starter cord broke and I had to give up for the time being. I went to the local Honda dealer because the local small engine repair shop was closed. While there I checked out their line of generators and as it turned out they were able to repair the spring and cord for my broken generator while I waited. How nice! I replaced the spark plug and the generator started right up, although occasionally, it would stop every once in a while for no apparent reason.

Well, here it is a little over a month after that incident, and now the generator doesn't run for longer than about a half hour at best. That's enough time to pump some water out of the well, but not long enough to do a load of laundry, and certainly not long enough to charge our batteries. During our cloudy winters, I usually need to run the generator about two to three hours per day to charge the batteries. It's time to get the generator repaired, but due to all the snow we've had I can't get the generator from the generator shed to my SUV parked at the bottom of the driveway. My neighbors tell me they have backup generators for just these occasions since they have been in the same situation as me before. In fact, their primary generator was in the shop. It was time to pay another visit to the Honda dealer.

Honda generators have a reputation for reliability. Also, Honda has a nice line of super quiet generators which are also very fuel efficient and don't require ethanol-free gasoline.  Each of these features appeal to me. I just wish Honda generators didn't cost so much.

We rarely use anywhere near the full capacity of the 8KW Generac generator that came with the house. I wanted an efficient generator that could charge our batteries or run an 1800 watt appliance, or charge our batteries and run a smaller appliance at the same time.  I ended up buying the largest Honda super-quiet inverter-based generator they offered--the EU3000is. The weight, at 134 lbs plus about 25 lbs of fuel and oil, was just manageable by my wife and me on our steep icy driveway. It took two days to get it hooked up because the NEMA L5-30 receptacle did not mate with any NEMA L5 plugs I could find at Home Depot. So after another trip back to the Honda dealer to get the special L5-30 plug, I was able to fabricate my cable and wire the generator to the house.

I fired it up and admired the fact that I could actually talk to my wife on a 2-way radio even as I stood over the generator. I was impressed when I came inside and inspected the charger and noticed that it was charging at a full 100 Amps (at 12 volts). I had never been able to achieve that with the old generator; at best I got 80 amps and more typically 40 to 60. I can now charge batteries in about half the time and burn less than half the gasoline at a lower cost because it doesn't have to be premium ethanol-free gasoline. I used to go through five gallons in two to three days. I now get three days on 3.4 gallons. That's really nice! And there is a wireless remote start kit that I will probably install later. That would come in handy if I need to start the generator at night and don't feel like getting all dressed up to go hiking through the snow just to get a small burst of power.

The new 3KW 120V Honda generator with the
broken 8KW 240V Generac generator behind it in
our generator shed about 120 feet from the house.

When the snow melts and I can get my SUV up to the house, I do plan on repairing the old generator. After all, it is capable of providing over twice the power, even if it isn't super-quiet or fuel efficient. And it's always good to have a backup, although, I think the backup will be the bigger, noisier generator from now on.


Resources:
Honda Generators: http://powerequipment.honda.com/generators